If you’re thinking about swapping your factory muffler for a sportier sound or fixing a rusted pipe, the first question is: how hard is it really? The short answer – you can do a basic fit in a weekend with the right tools, but a perfect job often needs a bit of know‑how and a garage lift.
Start by gathering the essentials: a set of sockets (usually 14 mm and 18 mm), a jack and stands or a floor jack, safety glasses, and a pair of gloves. If you’re replacing a full system, you’ll also need a rubber hammer, a gasket scraper, and a sealant approved for exhausts.
1. Let the car cool. Even a warm engine can burn you, and the metal shrinks when it cools, making bolts easier to remove. 2. Lift the rear. Secure the car on stands so the exhaust hangs free. This gives you room to work and prevents the jack from slipping. 3. Take off the old pipe. Loosen the clamps or bolts at the muffler and at the manifold connection. Use a rubber hammer if anything is stuck – don’t force it, you might bend the pipe. 4. Prep the new part. Compare the new exhaust to the old one. Make sure the flanges line up and that the hangers fit the stock brackets. If the new pipe is slightly longer, you may need to trim it with a metal cut‑off wheel. 5. Fit and seal. Slide the new pipe into place, hand‑tighten the clamps, then snug them with a socket. Apply a thin bead of high‑temperature sealant on the gasket edges for extra leak protection. 6. Check alignment. The exhaust should sit level and not rub against the underbody or suspension components. Adjust the hangers if needed. 7. Test run. Start the engine and listen. A steady, deep tone without rattles means you’ve done it right. If you hear leaks, tighten the clamps a bit more.
DIY fits are great for budgeting, but remember: a misaligned exhaust can cause poor performance, excess heat near the fuel lines, or even fail an MOT.
When you take your car to a garage, you usually pay for three things: labour, the part, and any extra accessories (like hangers or heat‑wrap). Labour rates in Northwich average £70‑£90 per hour. A full‑system aftermarket exhaust can run £200‑£600, depending on brand and material.
Why spend the extra cash? Pros can:
If you’re unsure about clearance, or if your car has a limited under‑tray space (common on hatchbacks), a pro can suggest a ‘direct‑fit’ pipe that avoids extra trimming. They also know local regulations – some noisy exhausts are restricted in UK residential zones.
Bottom line: If you’re comfortable with a socket set and have a safe workspace, a DIY fit saves money and gives you a sense of accomplishment. For most people, a quick visit to Northwich Tyres Centre for a professional install ensures everything lines up, passes the MOT, and sounds the way you want without headaches.
Ready to upgrade? Grab the right tools, follow the steps, and don’t forget to double‑check clearances. Or swing by the centre, let the experts handle the fit, and drive away with a roar you’ll be proud of.
Ever been lost trying to figure out what size exhaust your vehicle actually needs? This guide breaks it all down with no nonsense. You'll learn why exhaust size matters, how to measure the right way, and the effects of making the wrong choice. Forget the guesswork—get the right exhaust size for your performance and budget.
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